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Philae Temple |
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For over 50 years the Island of Philae and its monuments lay
half-submerged in water built up by the Aswan Dam and barrages during
annual inundations, until the UNESCO rescue operations for the Nubian
monuments in the 1960s. The temples have now been completely
dismantled and rebuilt to the original orientation on the nearby
island of Agilika which rises higher from the water and has been
reshaped and landscaped to resemble the original Philae. Metal pylons
on the old island of Philae can still be seen rising from the water to
the south of Agilika. |
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A short trip on a motor boat will bring the visitor suddenly upon a
magnificent vista of the island before landing at the what would have
been the ancient quay on the south side.
The earliest of the surviving monuments of Philae is the Kiosk of
Nectanebo I, of Dynasty XXX, although there is evidence of building
dating back to Dynasty XXV. Most of the other structures are Ptolemaic
and Roman and were re-used by the early Christians when the temple was
finally closed by the Emperor Justinian in 550AD. The main temple is
dedicated to Isis and was the centre of the cult of Isis and Hathor
during the Roman Period. It was the last pagan temple in use in Egypt.
There are many legends connected to Philae, but the most well known
one tells the story of how Isis found the heart of Osiris here after
his murder by his brother Seth. Each evening there is a Sound and
Light Show which recounts the legends against the magnificent backdrop
of the floodlit monuments - a truly magical experience.
Beginning at the south of the island, Nectanebo's structure is a hall
with screen walls linked by graceful columns. There are two colonnades
on the east and west sides of the courtyard, leading to the first
temple pylon. Each column has a different floral capital. The first
pylon was built by Ptolemy XII and decorated in traditional Egyptian
style with reliefs of the king subduing his enemies and worshipping
the goddess Isis. There are two portals, the main one is an earlier
doorway built by Nectanebo and if you look up on the east wall there
are inscriptions by the French army who visited here in 1799. The
other portal in the western tower leads to a birth-house where Isis is
depicted suckling her son Horus in the marshes. On the eastern side of
the inner court is another colonnade with a number of chambers behind.
At the southern end of the colonnade is a granite altar of Taharqo -
the oldest object on the island. In front of the second pylon the
natural outcrop of rock on which it was built was smoothed to create a
donation stela recording lands donated to the temple by Ptolemy VI.
The second pylon leads to the hypostyle hall and a staircase in the
western tower leads to the roof. Here can be found a suite of Osiris
chambers where the death and mourning of the god is depicted in
reliefs similar to those in Osiris rooms in other Ptolemaic temples.
Unfortunately visitors are no longer admitted to the roof.
The hypostyle hall is small and unassuming compared to some of the
other temples from this period. A series of three vestibules lead to
the central sanctuary and its chambers on either side have entrances
to the crypts. The Isis sanctuary still contains a pedestal where the
sacred barque used in the processions and festivals of the goddess
would have rested. |
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Leaving the main temple by a doorway in the eastern side, you can
visit the small Temple of Hathor built by Ptolemy VI and VIII, with
its Ptolemaic papyrus columns and depictions of the god Bes and an ape
playing a musical instrument. This is currently undergoing
restoration.
Nearby is the Kiosk of Trajan, probably the most distinctive of
Philae's monuments and the focus of the second half of the Sound and
Light show. Reliefs inside the rectangular structure of 14 columns
with screen walls, depict the Emperor Trajan making offerings to Isis,
Osiris and Horus. The roof is now gone and the kiosk which was at one
time the main entrance to the temple from the river, is airy and open.
You can get a magnificent view of the kiosk from the river on the
return journey from the island.
Moving round the outside of the Isis Temple the exterior walls depict
scenes carved by the Emperors Augustus and Tiberius. Mudbrick
buildings on the east and northern sides (now destroyed) would have
housed the Roman priests and temple staff. Also at the northern end of
the island you can see a Roman quay and gateway built by Diocletian.
On the western side of the island, near the Ptolemaic birth-house, a
nilometer leads down to the river. These structures were used to
measure the height of the annual inundation in ancient times in order
to assess taxes for the coming harvest. |
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| Philae Museum |
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An Egyptian antiquities museum is to be built on the archaeological
site of Philae Island. The planned museum costing EGP 20 million, will
show a collection of artefacts dating from the Old, Middle and New
Kingdoms, including a sculpture workshop showing the craft of
stone-cutting, which will be the museum's showpiece. |
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| Nearby monuments |
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There are many islands near Agilika, but those most closely associated
with Philae are the neighbouring islands of Biga and Konosso. A
privately hired boat will take you to Biga Island where there were
cult buildings dedicated to Osiris. Graeco-Roman legends state that
part of the dismembered Osiris was buried there and a cavern beneath
the island was the source of the Nile. Greek sources refer to Biga as
the 'Abaton' or forbidden place. There is little to see today on Biga,
which is very overgrown, but parts of a Ptolemaic gateway to the
temple still remain. There are also graffito on Biga and Konosso
recording visits by high officials during the New Kingdom.
On the Island of el-Heisa there are rock texts and a red granite naos
of Ptolemy VII, as well as rock-cut tombs of the priests of Philae. |
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| How to get there |
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The quay (locally known as Philae Port) for motor boats to the islands
between the dams, is south of the old Aswan Dam at Shallal, which can
be reached by taxi from Aswan. The easiest way to visit Philae Temple
is as part of an organised trip, which often will not cost much more
than going it alone. The ticket office for Philae is at the end of a
tourist bazaar at the gate to the boat landing. |
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