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Qasr el-Ghueita |
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A little to the north of Qasr el-Zayyan, is the magnificent hilltop
fortress of Qasr el-Ghueita, which like the former site also contains
a temple. The Arabic name of the mudbrick Roman fortress means
‘fortress of the small garden’, evidence that it was once part of a
thriving agricultural community. |
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Long before the Romans came to Egypt, this settlement was called Per-Ousekh
and is thought to have existed from at least as early as the Middle
Kingdom, when it was famous for its wine. Texts in the New Kingdom
tombs of the nobles at Thebes describe the excellent quality of the
grapes from the vineyards of Per-Ousekh. Grape-harvest scenes often
accompany the desert hunt rather than other scenes of food production,
perhaps suggesting that grapes were grown for wine in the desert oases
in preference to the Nile Valley. Wine from the oases was favoured by
the royal courts. |
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The fortress which dominates the hilltop at Qasr el-Ghueita may once
have served as a headquarters for the garrisons of Roman troops who
guarded the desert routes and numerous mudbrick buildings are
contained within the high fortified walls. Little is known at present
about the Roman occupation here. The village which once occupied the
slopes below the fortress can be seen in the scattered remains of
ruined houses and there is some evidence that the area was inhabited
even in prehistoric times. |
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A yellow sandstone temple within the Roman walls measures 10.5m by
23.5m and occupies about one-fifth of the space within the fortress.
Its earliest parts are thought to date to the reigns of Ahmose II (Amasis)
of the Persian Dynasty XXVII and Darius I of Dynasty XXVIII, though it
was possibly begun by the Nubian rulers of Dynasty XXV on the site of
an earlier sacred structure. The temple, dedicated to the Theban triad
of Amun, Mut and Khons, is entered through a sandstone gate on the
southern side of the enclosure walls. A pronaos with screen walls was
constructed by Ptolemy III in a courtyard which fronts the temple.
This leads to a hypostyle hall, richly decorated in Ptolemaic style
with scenes of Nile gods holding nome symbols in the lower registers
and with exquisite capitals on top of four columns. Decoration in the
extant temple contains the names of Ptolemy III (Euergetes I), Ptolemy
IV (Philopator) and Ptolemy X (Alexander I). There is no suggestion of
earlier decoration but it is thought that this hall may have been
constructed by Ahmose II. Beyond the hypostyle is an offering chamber
with a staircase to the roof, from where the visitor can get a
birds-eye view of the interior of the fortress and the surrounding
countryside. To the rear of the offering room are three parallel
sanctuaries for the cult statues of the Theban triad, with the
largest, the sanctuary of Amun, on the right-hand side. These walls
too are decorated but blackened by smoke and age. To the south-east of
the main temple building, within the enclosure, is the columned screen
façade of another stone structure which may have been a
birth-house. In front of the gate there is a processional platform.
Visited by 19th century travellers and excavated by Ahmed Fakhry in
1972, the temple has undergone more recent excavations by the Egyptian
Supreme Council of Antiquities which are not yet published. |
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| How to get there |
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The imposing fortress of Qasr el-Ghueita can be found 3km to the east
of the main road and about 18km south of the city of el-Kharga, on the
crest of a sandstone hill from where it commands a strategic view over
the desert plain. |
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