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Cemetery of El-Bagawat |
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About 3km from the centre of el-Kharga and 1km north of the Temple of
Hibis is the early Christian cemetery of Bagawat. Sprawling up the
lower southern foothills of Gebel el-Teir, Bagawat is perhaps the
oldest major Christian cemetery in the world and has become a main
tourist attraction for Kharga Oasis. |
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The cemetery consists of a vast expanse of domed mudbrick mausoleums
and underground galleries dating back to the 4th century AD, which
were built over the site of an earlier Egyptian necropolis of
pit-graves. As a burial ground Bagawat appears to have been in
constant use until the 11th century, although the mudbrick structures
date only up to the 7th century. The architectural style of the 263
tomb-chapels varies from simple one-room structures to family
mausoleums with ornate façades enhanced with faux columns and
arches and domed roofs. The chapels were arranged in 'streets' and
interconnecting narrow alleyways, making this one of the earliest
'cities of the dead'. Each superstructure was constructed over a deep
pit beneath the floor level which contained shelves for the coffins
and funerary goods. It is interesting that some of the equipment had
been re-used from earlier Egyptian burials, with painted scenes of
Horus and Thoth still visible. The early Christians of Kharga also
continued with the 'pagan' custom of embalming their dead long after
the tradition had been discontinued in other areas. Unfortunately
virtually all of the tombs have been plundered over time and most of
the mummies destroyed in the process. |
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Although many of the chapels were undecorated and consisted simply of
a single chamber built over the tomb shaft, some were much more
elaborate and contained plastered walls with painted biblical scenes
in a strange mixture of styles while others have elements reminiscent
of earlier Egyptian architecture. Two of the most outstanding and best
preserved of the decorated chapels are named ‘Chapel of the Exodus’
and 'Chapel of Peace'. Inside the Chapel of the Exodus, which is one
of the earliest in the cemetery, the interior of the dome is decorated
in two bands illustrating scenes from the Old Testament; Adam and Eve,
Moses leading the Israelites through the Sinai desert in the Exodus,
Pharaoh (Rameses II?) and his armies, Noah’s ark, Daniel in the lion’s
den, Jonah and the whale and several other biblical episodes. In the
Chapel of Peace, similar themes are depicted on the dome, including
the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary and others, each identified in
Greek. The interior walls are also painted with many Byzantine
frescoes of grape vines, peacocks, allegorical figures and
inscriptions. The purpose of the Christian tomb-chapels, like their
ancient Egyptian counterparts, was for the reverence of the deceased. |
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Numerous Arabic graffiti dating from the 9th century to the present
day can also be seen in some of the chapels, including some by Turkish
soldiers thought to be garrisoned at Bagawat in the late 18th century.
In the centre of the cemetery a mud-brick church once had Christian
saints depicted on its walls and at the rear niches for icons and
lamps can still be seen. |
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| Nearby monuments |
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About 2km beyond the cemetery of Bagawat in an ancient limestone
quarry in the foothills of Gebel el-Teir, there are numerous graffiti
inscribed on the faces of rocks and boulders. The graffiti, written in
Demotic, Greek and Coptic, span over seven centuries and date from
Ptolemy VIII through the Greek and Roman periods to the Coptic
Christian era. One Demotic graffito dating to the reign of Cleopatra
VII mentions the ancient name of Kysis, which was the name of the town
surrounding the fortress at Dush. Other areas of the wadis and slopes
of Gebel el-Teir also contain graffiti dating from prehistoric to
present times, but they are often difficult to access.
Also in the foothills behind Bagawat, a series of rock-cut tombs
stretch for almost 1km in the side of the mountain. Although usually
named as 'Sixth Dynasty Tombs' they are mostly unexcavated and show
little evidence of belonging to the Old Kingdom.
Standing far out on the open plain west of Bagawat, is a tall mubrick
tower known as Tahunet el-Hawa, or 'Tower of the Winds'. The structure
is presumed Roman although it has never been properly investigated or
dated by archaeologists. Measuring roughly 6m by 6m at the base and
rising almost 12m in height, it once contained several floors
connected by a staircase and is thought to have been a watchtower or
signal post. A single entrance on the south side gives access to the
now-empty tower. Standing near the intersection of two important
tracks, the structure may even have been used as a beacon to guide
travellers along the desolate desert routes towards el-Kharga. |
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